Là où le temps s’est arrêté: le Genbaku Dome d’Hiroshima



Si le nom d’Hiroshima reste aujourd’hui associé à la mémoire du premier bombardement atomique sur des civils de l’Histoire, aujourd’hui il ne reste au final que peu de traces de cet évènement tragique. Dans l’effort d’après guerre, le Japon a totalement reconstruit la ville qui le matin du 6 août 1945 fut totalement rasée, reconstruisant même son château du XVIeme siècle à l’identique, tournant la douloureuse page de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale. Mais il existe un endroit qui dans cette ville est resté intouché, un symbole de ce jour fatidique: le Dôme de Genbaku.

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Photo du Dome de Genbaku après son inauguration, vers 1920, dans son état d’origine avec son architecture « européenne » caractéristique.

Cet édifice se trouve le matin du 6 août 1945 à seulement 150 mètres de l’épicentre de l’explosion nucléaire qui pulvérise la ville, et malgré sa proximité avec la boule de feu créée par la bombe atomique, ce bâtiment du début du XXeme siècle est resté debout tel un roc, contrastant avec la totalité des constructions des alentours qui furent anéanties. Conçue par l’architecte tchèque Jan Letzel en 1916 dans un style Art Déco et néo-baroque, la structure qui abrite au moment de son inauguration le Palais d’exposition industrielle de la ville est l’un des seuls édifices d’Hiroshima construit en brique, béton et acier. C’est cette structure particulière qui permettra au bâtiment de résister à l’arme la plus puissante de l’humanité, puisque se trouvant presque à la verticale du centre de l’explosion, la force phénoménale du souffle de Little Boy fut absorbée par sa structure en acier et seuls les éléments les moins solides du Dôme de Genbaku furent soufflés.

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Le Dome de Genbaku en ruine, peu après le bombardement d’Hiroshima.

Si la destruction de la ville d’Hiroshima fut malgré tout totale, c’est que la majorité des bâtiments qui étaient construits au Japon à l’époque l’étaient en bois, voir même avec des panneaux en papier et très rarement du plâtre. C’est pourquoi ils furent instantanément soufflés et les rares qui restèrent debout brûlèrent dans des brasiers radioactifs qui perdurèrent des jours entiers, tuant au passage nombre d’habitants et leur infligeant des doses mortelles de radiation. En effet, plus que l’onde de choc ou les radiations d’une explosion nucléaire, c’est l’intense chaleur dégagée par la bombe Little Boy larguée sur Hiroshima qui tua le plus de personnes, celle-ci provoquant instantanément des brûlures fatales et chauffant l’air à de telles températures que des incendies se déclenchèrent à des kilomètres du centre de l’explosion. L’éclair de l’explosion associée à une chaleur intense eut même pour conséquence de marquer l’ombre des victimes sur les murs au moment de leur mort, comme sur la pellicule d’un appareil photo, phénomène que l’on nomma les ombres d’Hiroshima.

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L’ombre d’un passant avec sa canne mort pendant le bombardement, figée à jamais dans le sol de cet escalier après l’explosion atomique d’Hiroshima.

Depuis ce jour, le temps s’est arrêté autour du Dôme de Genbaku, car s’il a échappé à la destruction, il a cependant été décidé que jamais il ne serait démoli ou reconstruit, ses ruines symbolisant le souvenir douloureux de l’un des jours les plus tragiques de l’Histoire du Japon. Il est baptisé du nom par lequel on le connait aujourd’hui à ce moment là, Genbaku étant l’abréviation de « genshikabukan », signifiant littéralement bombe atomique en japonais. Ses ruines font aujourd’hui partie intégrante du Parc du Mémoral de la Paix d’Hiroshima, un parc dédié au souvenir du bombardement et à l’abolition des armes nucléaires, et sont inscrites sur la liste du patrimoine mondial de l’humanité. Seuls deux pays se sont opposés à cette reconnaissance du Dôme de Genbaku sur la liste de l’Unesco : la Chine et les Etats-Unis.

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Le monument de la paix dans le parc à Hiroshima, en alignement avec le Dôme de Genbaku qui n’a pas été touché depuis 1945, mis à part pour des travaux de consolidation afin de l’empêcher de s’effondrer.

Source: On n’est pas des Lumières

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