VIDEO. On a analysé les produits d’un distributeur de friandises et ça nous a un peu coupé la faim

Nous avons étudié la qualité nutritionnelle et les additifs présents dans chacun des 36 articles proposés par un distributeur automatique. Verdict : beaucoup trop d’additifs présents et une qualité nutritionnelle qui laisse souvent à désirer.

On les croise chaque jour au travail, à l’université, dans les gares ou dans les stations de métro. Les distributeurs automatiques de friandises et de boissons sont partout, prêts à combler un petit creux dans notre estomac ou à nous désaltérer.

Mais quelle est la qualité des produits proposés ? Pour le savoir, franceinfo.fr a analysé le contenu de l’une de ces machines, qui propose biscuits, barres chocolatées, bonbons et boissons fraîches. Pour chacun des articles, nous avons estimé sa qualité nutritionnelle à l’aide du Nutri-Score, un barème conçu par Santé publique France mais dont l’apposition reste facultative, au bon vouloir des industriels de l’agroalimentaire.


Pour chaque produit, le Nutri-Score prend en compte (lien en PDF) les nutriments dont la consommation excessive nuit à la santé (le sel, les sucres et les acides gras saturés), et les nutriments positifs (les protéines, les fibres, la proportion de fruits et légumes). Ce qui permet d’attribuer une note allant de A (meilleure qualité nutritionnelle) à E (moins bonne qualité nutritionnelle).

Des additifs potentiellement nocifs


Au moment où nous avons réalisé le test, le distributeur que nous avons choisi comportait 36 produits différents. Parmi eux, 19 (soit plus de la moitié) obtiennent un E, la pire note possible. Six articles sont notés D, six notés C, trois notés B et un noté A. Nous avons également appliqué un A à la pomme proposée dans le distributeur, bien que le Nutri-Score ne s’applique qu’aux produits transformés.


L’article noté A est un sandwich triangle au poulet rôti, qui parvient à obtenir cette note grâce à une viande pauvre en graisses saturées et à un pain de mie complet comportant des fibres. Son équivalent au saucisson rosette est en revanche noté E. Deux produits en apparence similaires peuvent obtenir des notes différentes. Par exemple, un paquet de quatre biscuits au sésame de marque Gerblé obtient un C, tandis qu’un croquant au sésame de la même marque écope d’un E. Une exception, selon le fabricant : « Seulement 3% de nos produits sont classés E », assure-t-on chez Gerblé.


Mais notre test ne s’est pas arrêté à la qualité nutritionnelle. Nous avons également traqué les additifs que les industriels utilisent afin d’améliorer la texture, la saveur ou la conservation de leurs produits. Afin d’évaluer leur dangerosité, nous avons pris comme base les informations contenues dans l’ouvrage Le Nouveau guide des additifs, d’Anne-Laure Denans (éd. Thierry Souccar, 2017), qui s’appuie sur les dernières études scientifiques connues. Sur les 36 produits étudiés, la moitié (18) ne contiennent aucun additif considéré comme dangereux pour la santé. En revanche, les 18 autres renferment au moins un additif qui, à forte dose, peut favoriser l’apparition d’allergies voire de maladies.

Le sandwich au poulet évoqué précédemment, aux qualités nutritionnelles plutôt vertueuses, contient des mono ou diglycérides d’acides gras (E 471), un additif controversé. Du fait de l’absence de sucre, le Coca-Cola zéro obtient un B au Nutri-Score, une note honorable. Mais cette boisson comporte deux additifs déconseillés : l’aspartame, un édulcorant bien connu, mais aussi un caramel de sulfite d’ammonium potentiellement cancérogène.

Les produits sains sous-représentés

Parmi les additifs controversés qui reviennent le plus souvent dans les produits testés figurent les diphosphates, qui apportent du phosphore dans l’organisme. Or, consommé en excès, ce phosphore augmente le risque de maladies cardiovasculaires chez les personnes en insuffisance rénale. Des études citées par Le Nouveau guide des additifs ont en outre montré qu’un taux élevé de phosphate dans le sang était associé à un risque plus élevé de cancers du sein, notamment.


Dans le distributeur que nous avons étudié, les aliments notés A ou B présentent tous au moins un additif controversé. Pour trouver un produit qui présente une qualité nutritionnelle correcte sans contenir d’additif nocif, il faut se rabattre sur les biscuits au sésame de Gerblé, ou sur un paquet de chips de la marque Bret’s, tous deux notés C au Nutri-Score. Trois jus de fruits en canette présents dans cette machine obtiennent eux aussi un C, et ne comportent pas d’additif problématique.

Pour inciter les consommateurs à privilégier des produits plus sains dans ces distributeurs automatiques, le Haut Conseil de la santé publique recommande de limiter les boissons sucrées ou édulcorées (y compris les jus de fruits) à 50% de l’offre de boisson, « les 50% restants étant de l’eau nature sans sucres ou édulcorants et classés A en Nutri-Score ». Le Haut Conseil préconise aussi de réserver 50% des aliments solides proposés à des produits classés A ou B en Nutri-Score. Une recommandation formulée dans un rapport de 2017, mais qui n’a pour l’instant pas trouvé de traduction dans les faits.


De leur côté, les députés de la commission d’enquête sur l’alimentation industrielle, qui viennent de rédiger un rapport sur le sujet, préconisent de rendre obligatoire l’affichage du Nutri-Score « sur les produits transformés et ultra transformés produits en France ». Ils espèrent également convaincre l’industrie agroalimentaire de n’utiliser, à l’horizon 2025, que 48 additifs sur les 338 autorisés aujourd’hui. Enfin, ils souhaitent interdire dans les denrées alimentaires l’utilisation du dioxyde de titane, qui contient des nanoparticules.

En attendant, pour y voir plus clair sur ce que vous mangez, l’utilisation d’applications mobiles comme Yuka ou OpenFoodFacts peut vous aider. Et en cas de tentation, n’oubliez pas les conseils des nutritionnistes : pour combler les petits creux ou les grandes soifs, privilégiez l’eau et les fruits.


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